24 October 2010

Discovering the Ngonrongoro Crater

The Ngorongoro Crater is another must see in Tanzania’s collection of famous safari parks and also one of the most visited!  I am excited to be here.  My first few of the crater is from the crater rim where we have been camping the previous night. 

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There aren’t too many spots to camp in the crater rim so although we were the first to arrive at this scenic spot, our camp site was very quickly looking like tent city.

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The crater is just one in a series of inter related eco systems and craters in the Crater Highlands.  These once active volcanoes and calderas are now home to some of Africa’s most prolific collection of wildlife. The Ngonrongoro Conservation Area (NCA) is about 8300 sq km and the crater itself approximately 20km wide and one of the world’s largest calderas!PA150006

My first sighting of life here is of the Masaai, herding their cattle.  As the ancient custodians of this land they are allowed to share this space with the many wild animals including lion, elephant, buffalo, wildebeest and a variety of antelope that call this place home.  I love the colours of their blankets which adds a splash of vibrancy to an otherwise dull landscape!

JPEGS 2010 10 17 Ngorongoro-7Many of the animals on the crater floor are here on a permanent basis although there is some movement in and out of the crater.  It is a place where both food and water is quite plentiful and hence an attractive place for both the Masaai and wild life. 

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We have however, come at the driest time of year and although the lakes are full of water, the surrounding plains are quite dry and brown.

JPEGS 2010 10 17 Ngorongoro1 It was quite cold camping on the rim of the crater and the clouds are still pouring over the rim as we wind our way down the steep slope to the floor of this ancient caldera.JPEGS 2010 10 17 Ngorongoro-39 Our first sighting is of flamingos in the shallow banks of the soda lake, Lake Magadi.  Despite the smell of sulphur, blown our way by the gentle breeze I wish we could get closer to admire the beautiful pink flamingos so prolific here.

They are just amazing to watch and I could sit here for ever!

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Due to the time of year, there is much less wildlife than we expected.  But what do you know…it is spring time in the crater too..and this time it is the hyenas that keep us entertained!

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They do it – doggy style (no variations here - he he) - in the grass, in the mud…enjoying the freedom of springtime and quite oblivious to the snap happy paparazzi in the 4 wheel drives close by!

For me the most exciting sighting of my crater safari is the elephant with the giant tusk!  I had heard about these elephants but never seen one previously.  These elephants have been poached so aggressively they are close to extinction.  Unfortunately, the laws of natural selection now dictate that most of the elephants born have much smaller tusks.  We watch this elephant in fascination wondering how he gets around.  Who said size didn’t matter? :) !! 

JPEGS 2010 10 17 Ngorongoro-44We drive up the crater wall content in the knowledge we have seen enough for the time of year we are here.  It is time to head back to our campsite in Arusha and get re-acquainted with our truck!   We have had a great time on our little excursion and had fun with our guides who were quite attentive with their compliments!  

As we leave the village I see a flash of colour and catch a glimpse of a Masaai market.  Soon we will be leaving them far behind, as we get further away from their traditional homelands.  I love these people and wish I could spend more time getting to know them and their ancient culture. 

JPEGS 2010 10 16 Serengeti Readjusting is a painful process, but most of us need it at one time or another.  ~Arthur Christopher Benson

1 comment:

Katie Proctor said...

Look at those tusks! xoxoox miss you Nil!