South Georgia - Grytviken

We have landed early morning at Grytviken for a poignant memorial at the Whaler’s cemetery.   We are gathered around Shakelton’s grave, having been given a drink of whiskey or ginger ale, to drink a toast to this great explorer.  Shane, the expedition historian reads us a piece about him.  Shakelton had returned to Grytviken on the vessel Quest,  southbound on a voyage. when he passed away having suffered a heart attack while the ship was moored at the whaling station.  He was just 48 years old.  While his body was on the way home his widow decided he should be buried here, a place with special memories & meaning for him.  His last diary entry, just before he died read thus:

“In the darkening twilight, I saw a lone star hover, Gem like above the bay.”  

It is very moving to be here.  We toast the boss, and pour a bit of our drink on his grave, in salute to a man who has inspired our own journeys. We have the morning to explore this amazing place.  During the height of the whaling industry, over 300 men lived here and worked long hours to process the whales that were caught abundantly in these waters, with not a thought given to sustainable practices.  As many as 4 dozen could be brought in at once.  Sadly this has now led to the demise of whales such as the blue whales, who are rarely seen in these waters.The restored whalers church is simple and poignant and the place where Shakelton’s funeral was held.  The first pastor here lamented that the whalers did not use his services much and the church was mainly used for funerals!  We sit in the plain wooden pews and experience the deafening silence of this remote place.  The museum here is fascinating and we look through old photos from the days of Shakelton, and gaze in awe at the wandering albatross, mounted on the wall.   

We have to catch a zodiac back to the boat for lunch, but before we leave, Angela and I hike to Shakelton’s cross.  We fend off aggressive seals as we make the hike to the cross that stands on the hillside overlooking the magnificent Southern Ocean.  We sit on the bench there for what seems like ages, wondering what life might have been like in the early 1900s and reflecting on the courage of the great explorers. After lunch many of us take the option of coming back to Grytviken, although I have to persuade Leah and Angela to get out of bed first!  It is not the best weather conditions, but how often does one find oneself in the Southern Ocean!

Angela and I join a group that David (our birding expert on the expedition team) leads.  We walk up hill and then around a beautiful glacial lake.  The wind is gusting and the weather is bracing but it is a wonderful invigorating experience.  As I say goodbye to Grytviken, I reflect on the words engraved on the back of Shakelton’s gravestone….

 “I hold that a man should strive to the uttermost for his life’s set prize. Robert Browning”