Cruising Kinnes Cove, Joinville Is

It is Day 2 in the Antarctic Peninsular.  The weather has turned and we are not able to make the scheduled landing.  However, Graham suggest we go cruising out in the zodiacs again to check out Joinville Island. Joinville is the largest of 3 islands at the tip of the Antarctic Peninsular.  It was named by the French explorer d’Urville, after a nobleman back home.  But long before Dumont d’Urville’s exploits in Antarctica, he had made a name for himself.  This is the man who found the statue of Venus on the island of Milos while working on a ship in the Mediterranean.  For his efforts in discovering this most famous of Greek sculptures, he was awarded the Legion of Honour! 

At the foot of the cliffs, now covered in snow are 45,000 pairs of nesting Adelies.  The scene looks quite magical, with ice particles hanging off the sides of the cliffs in the misty morning light. A number of people have decided to stay aboard due to the weather but I don’t want to miss any opportunity to see another bit of this amazing continent.  It is actually not as cold as I thought it would be and now armed with thick socks and foot warmers from the gift shop, I feel quite comfortable. Each time we go out I feel I have a slightly different experience and I try to focus on another aspect of life and landscape in the peninsular.  This time, it it the Adelies, all lined uo at the waters edge waiting patiently for their turn to jump in.    They are such a funny sight and remind me of my own swimming exploits in the winters of Sydney.  I swim in an outdoor pool and will often stand at the edge, dangling my toes forever, before I brave the cold waters.  I like to think these penguins are a little bit the same although I don’t think they feel the cold as much!  The penguins are a joy to watch in the water.   They swim in unison, all around our zodiacs as we cruise these waters.  Suddenly, they will change direction and we wonder, what signals they give each to put on this wonderful synchronised swimming display!     The steep cliff face also makes for an ideal ski slope.  We watch as the Adelie penguins careen down the slopes.  They seem to be completely enjoying themselves and this natural ski field that nature has provided!   We don’t stay out here for too long.  The mist is closing in and it is time to turn back.     We do a bit more cruising amongst the ice bergs and head back to Sergey Vavilov now dwarfed by an iceberg!   However, before we break for lunch, we are invited to take a polar plunge.  The plunge pool on board has been filled with icy cold ocean water and 22 people put up their hands for a chance to take a dip in the freezing water.  For your efforts you are rewarded with a shot of vodka.  For a girl who grew up in the tropics, such antics have no appeal.  I watch from up the deck for a few minutes before I head back to the bar for my hot chocolate!  At least I’ve got my priorities right! 

Driving down the wrong road and knowing it,
The fork years behind, how many have thought
To pull up on the shoulder and leave the car
Empty, strike out across the fields; and how many
Are still mazed among dock and thistle,
Seeking the road they should have taken?
~Damon Knight, The Man in the Tree, 1984