Living Life on the Edge – Ice Climbing Viedma Glacier

When I came to Patagonia, I expected to wind down after my travels through Antarctica, after what has been a very hectic year of travel.  But Patagonia has forced me to sit up and notice her and continued to challenge me physically, dishing up new challenges and stunning vistas that have left me awestruck at the beauty of this planet we live in.  I guess I will have to wait till I am back in Sydney to have a holiday!

At the start of my year off, I vowed I’d challenge myself to live outside my comfort zone.  When we are informed that we have the opportunity to go ice climbing Viedma Glacier, Argentina’s largest glacier, I can’t possibly turn it down! 

Viedma Glacier is also situated in Los Glaciers NP, which stretches for 170 km along the Chilean border and is the second largest park in Argentina.  There are 13 main glaciers that descend into Lake Argentina and Lake Viedma so it is a chance to ice climb in a stunning place.  Almost half of this park is covered by the Southern Ice cap although this section is completely inaccessible.

Initially, Sarah, Katie and I vacillate between wanting to give the ice climbing a go, and being a little apprehensive about the whole exercise.  We make a final decision to throw our hats in the ring the evening before the excursion.  There are few places in the world, where beginners can ice climb, especially with such a stunning back drop!  The three of us are joined on this excursion by Dave and Rose as well as Bob & Diane, a couple from Brisbane who travelled with me in Antarctica.  It is another clear beautiful day as we make the  catamaran trip to ‘base camp’!  We are fully kitted out with our safety equipment including crampons, which we wear over our boots (for walking on ice) a safety harness and helmets in case of a fall.

After the guides install the climbing ropes, we are given some basic instruction on technique and then its time to hit the wall!  Bob, goes first, but he is suffering from a bad foot and is unable to get to the summit.  I am next and despite my initial trepidation, get up to the top with only a few slips from which I recover from quickly without losing too much ground.  

It is an amazing feeling to get to the top of the wall, and hit my pickaxe on the ridge!  I feel an amazing sense of achievement at completing this basic climb.  It is my first ice wall climb, (as it is for the rest of the group) and the buzz I get from reaching the top stays with me for awhile.

Everyone is cheering and I feel quite elated.  One of the best things about travel is how supportive your fellow travellers are, when you are attempting something new.  I want to keep going but there is nowhere to go but abseil down.  I am instructed on what to do, and I hold my axes free of the ice, keep my boots flat and make my way down, in a similar fashion to an abseil off a cliff face when rock climbing. 

I’ve set the tempo for the group and everyone is raring to give it a go.  There are 2 ropes against this ice wall, and I watch as a few people seem to struggle going up the second rope.  Once everyone has their first go, the guides inform us that we can switch ropes and try a different ice wall face.  I am excited at the prospect of going up again, and walk up with a determination to get up this second more difficult wall.  While I slip a little, I am confident in my recovery and reach the summit of the second wall, with an even greater sense of elation.  I am more relaxed the second time around and have lots of fun rappelling back and make little jumps off the ice on my way down, just like the pros! 

We then move on to a different area, with a fresh challenge.  Two adjacent walls, with very different levels of difficulty.  The ice wall on the left is almost vertical and very hard to climb.  The wall on the right has a flatter slope and is easier. 

 

I feel quite comfortable now and am enjoying this so much that I try for the hardest wall right away.  The ice is much looser than on my previous climbs and crumbles as I struggle to get my ice pick to hold. I have a lot of determination but my body is tired from climbing the first 2 walls and despite my best efforts I don’t get further than half way.  Most people didn’t master this wall, but Katie shows us  how its done by climbing her way to the top!

I want to finish the day on a high so I make my last attempt on the easier wall.  This one is so much easier in comparison, I am almost running up the wall initially.  I make it to the top without a problem and shake my ice picks in the air and give out a whoop of delight!  I’ve had a blast. It has been a marvellous morning and we are all on a high before we make our way back to base camp for lunch.  The day is only half over and we have a glacier walk to complete after lunch!   

 "The longest journey begins with a single step."
-  Lao Tsu, Tao Te Ching