28 November 2010

A Postcard from Damascus

Ahlan wa sahlan from Damascus, Syria!  We have arrived here by means of a taxi convoy from Jordan, crossing the Syrian border quite easily, despite the fact, both Victor and I did not have our visas issued in advance in the country we resided in, as one is supposed to do according to the regulations here. 

This was not due to any fault of our own.  I left Sydney far too early for the Syrian embassy to issue me a visa.  (It can only be issued 3 months before you enter the country, at a stretch 6 but no more than that).  Despite numerous calls and emails begging them to bend their rules for a world traveller, the embassy staff were inflexible on that one!

The only way I could get one was to have shipped my passport back to Australia, a risk that of course I was not prepared to take, while in Africa!  Fortunately for me, the travel gods were smiling down on me the day we crossed the border and we get through immigration with lots of smiles exchanged for a visa firmly stamped on my passport.  I’m glad I don’t have to take a cab back to Amman and fly to Turkey – the worst case scenario.  I feel very lucky to be here.  For whatever reason, the Spanish contingent just ahead of me were not let in but I, an Aussie, is allowed in!  Shukran, Immigration officer!

I am happy and excited to be finally here in Syria.  Years ago, my Dad told me if there was one country I must visit, it was Syria.  He never really elaborated on that statement but now that I am here in Damascus, I can see why.  I just wish he were still alive so I could tell him I made it.  

It is an amazingly historic city.  A place with legitimate claims of being one of the oldest inhabited places on earth and a it is a city with a ‘soul’.  I love Damascus! 

JPEGS 2010 11 26 Damascus2I would love to spend far more time than the 2 days we have here!  It boggles my mind that President Bush included Syria in the countries he named as part of the Axis of Evil.  It is an incredibly vibrant, sophisticated city where life has evolved and progressed amidst the history of the past.  The people here have welcomed us warmly and everywhere we go we’ve been greeted with the words, ‘Welcome to Syria’! 

Shopkeepers in the souk (market), invite us in by tempting us with a tray of welcome nuts or lollies.  There is no hassling here, just a local who is hospitable and doesn’t even care if we walk out with nothing.  Because of this, we often leave with a bag of sweets or nuts purchased for a dollar or two, having exchanged a friendly chat with a local curious about our origins.     

We’ve arrived around mid afternoon so after a bite to eat we venture out to get oriented and setup with money and snacks for our stay in a new country. 

Later on that evening we go out to the old city for a fabulous dinner at PB260020 Al-Khawali, one of the best restaurants in town.  I don my Egyptian dress (a brightly coloured, embroidered affair purchased at the market) which I’ve teamed with a matching head scarf for the occasion.  I’m sipping an Emperor Cocktail (mango, vanilla and ice cream) while dining on tasty mezzah (appetisers) and kebabs.  The bread here is cooked in an open flame oven just across from where we sit and brought to our table, piping hot.  JPEGS 2010 11 26 DamascusThe dips and homus is to die for and we never seem to tire of trying yet another one.  This time it is walnuts, olive oil, tomatoes and garlic.  Yum.  Desert is deliciously sweet and sticky..a variation on the baklava theme. 

After dinner the boys decide they want to go clubbing and some of us decide to join them for a drink.  The club is in the Christian quarter and I am delighted to see it is a nice mix of locals and travellers.  I am the only person there with a head scarf :) !  Ha ha..I have never had so many glances and looks come my way as I have received today!  Going native always confuses the locals!  Perhaps the locals are wondering if I am an escaped Muslim girl out on for a night on the town.  Luke threatens to spread a rumour that I am a Sri Lankan princess and ask around if anyone wants to take their picture with me.  I’ve even got a new name – Princess Tehani (From Mutiny on the Bounty)!  But after one drink, Victor, Em, Yvonne and I escape before the boys can cause too much mischief! 

We walk through the tunnel, hoping to browse the souk along the way home but most of the shops are shut, a lot earlier than they would have in Egypt.  However, the best ice cream shop in the Middle East is open.  Victor is still hungry so we stop for ice cream and discover the Syrians have an an amazing sense of humour too!  Victor asks  the ice cream man to go easy on his helping.  “Just a small one”, he says, while watching in dismay as he keeps piling on the ice cream. 

JPEGS 2010 11 26 Damascus1

He keeps a straight face, while trying to convince Victor this is a small ice cream in Syria!  We are all in fits of laughter while Victor poses for photographs.  Then the guy chooses a baby cone, and puts a very tiny dollop and tells Victor that it costs approximately US $10!  This kind of playful antics continue for awhile before Victor finally gets his ice cream.  It only costs a dollar and is an generous helping of amazingly soft vanilla ice cream dipped in pistachio nuts and topped off with a bit of chocolate and strawberry ice cream.

We’ve had such a great time with the guy, we promise to come back the next day and buy more ice creams from him.  He gives us all generous tastings and we leave with yet more pleasant stories to tell of the locals here.  We are still laughing when we finally return back to our hotel at midnight. 

JPEGS 2010 11 26 Damascus3

“Some cities oust or smother their past.  Damascus lives in hers.” Colin Thubron

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