The Smoke that Thunders – A Post Card from Zimbabwe!

Greetings from Zimbabwe!  We have the shortest leg of our journey so far, the trip between Livingstone and Victoria Falls, which includes the border crossing in to Zimbabwe.  It is an easy crossing, that hundreds of locals and tourists alike make everyday. 

Our campsite is lovely but Ali, Rob, Julie and I decide to upgrade, on this our last stop of the tour.  It will give us a chance to rest and recuperate and also have a bit of fun together before we go our separate ways.   We book a simple two bedroom chalet which includes a bathroom, dining area and kitchen.  Nothing flash but after roughing it in a tent for most of the past 6 weeks we think this is great.

At dinner on our first night in ‘Zim’, we are entertained by a troupe of local dancers.  We are enthralled by their singing and dancing and later learn that the much of the proceeds of the CDs they sell go toward supporting a local orphanage.  Many of these boys were orphans themselves and this is their way of giving back.  Another great African example of what people who have so little are willing to do to give back a little. 

We have 3 nights here and on our first full day Julie, Emma and I decide to walk to the National Park and view the falls from the Zimbabwe side.  It is the dry season but despite that the falls are still spectacular.  One of the local dancers who has befriended Emma join us on the walk.   

We  walk to each lookout and take photos and stop to admire the wildlife and the spring flowers.  The fireball lilies are blooming and look spectacular. 

We stop to reflect at a statue of David Livingstone and remember this great man who spent so much of his life on this continent at a time when it was incredibly rare to find white men in the places he travelled to.

It is hot and humid but the mist reaches us across the gorge and cools us down from time to time.  We take our time around the circuit walk, taking lots of pictures and just admiring this amazing natural spectacle and one of the widest & most wonderful waterfalls in the world.

It is almost lunch time when we finish but we have another important mission before lunch.  Emma has decided to brave the bungy jump off the famous bridge across the gorge.  She had finished her waterfall walk way ahead of us but has patiently waited for so we can go along to watch.  Julie and I are more than happy to just watch from the sidelines, support our friend and take a few pictures for her. I can’t believe she is doing this, and my spine tingles as she takes a leap off the platform and careens down to the gorge.  The bungy cord seems to pull her about and she seems to dangle upside down for ages before she is finally hauled back up to safety. 

While we wait for Emma to pick up her DVD we chat to a couple of the local boys to while away the time.  They  tell us how difficult it is these days in Zimbabwe with only 10% of the population employed.  These boys sell bracelets and other knick knacks to make ends meet.  We work for food, they tell me. I buy a copper bracelet to help out in a small way.  Copper is one of the major exports in these parts and a valuable part of the economy.  Their cheeky grins belie the fact that life for these young men is quite difficult.

After lunch at a little cafe on the bridge we decide to visit the Vic Falls hotel.  On the way we stop at the gorge lookout to marvel at people who are braving the gorge swing and riding the flying fox across the gorge.  Their screams of terror or was that pleasure carry toward us.   The Vic Falls Hotel is the Zimbabwe version of the Raffles Hotel in Singapore. 

We get there around afternoon tea time and find the patio full of beautiful people in their lovely smart casual outfits having high tea.  I feel a little underdressed but we don’t care.  We are here to try their famous cocktails! 

Many years ago, Julie had stayed at these posh digs with her then partner and remembered a drink she had enjoyed very much.  “Do you still serve the Zimbabwe Shandy”, she enquires and we find they do.  A mocktail of ginger beer, lemonade, orange crush and a splash of bitters it is served ice cold and is just the refreshing drink we needed after our long hot day.   We settle into our comfortable chairs and sip our drinks, savouring the chance to experience for a little while how the other half ‘do Africa!’ 

 "Travellers, there is no path, paths are made by walking."  -   Antonio Machado